Today, I would set forth up the coast along the final segment of the Pacific Coast Highway; but first I would enjoy a bit more time with my Uncle John and time packing up Pearl for the road. We had lunch at the Victorian Corner and I took a nap before setting off for Manzanita, just north of San Francisco. Having made this trek earlier in the summer before heading to Colorado, I was comfortable with the drive along the coast, passing through Santa Cruz, Half Moon Bay, and Pacifica before touring through San Fran and across the Golden Gate Bridge. Making my way past Sausalito, I had reserved a place close to the highway for an early departure to get in a early hike the next morning.
Twenty years ago, the world witnessed as New York City was attacked. As I hiked from Muir Beach to an overlook where batteries once stood protecting a different city in another time, I recalled my own memories from that day. Taking a moment to process the immensity of the day, recounts of tragedy and heroism, I am reminded of the strength and resolve we had as a Country in the days following the attacks. Twenty years later, we need the same strength, resolve, and the unity we shared to make it through more trying times.
Departing the Bay Area, I headed north up California Highway 1 to Point Reyes National Seashore. A quick stop in the visitor center, I checked to make sure access was open to the Elk Reserve. Fog never disappoints to be present along the coast and today, it made for a treat to capture some of the elk amongst an eerie backdrop. Tule Elk at the Tomales Point Reserve are endemic to the area and a remnant of once greater numbers, severely reduced in the mid 1800’s.
My day would come to an end in Santa Rosa, home to the famous Russian River Brewing Company. I found my way and bellied up to the bar, just in time to enjoy watching NC State take on Mississippi State in Starkville. Sharing some of the tastiest brews in California with some new found friends cheering at the TV, it was a welcomed change to the emotion the day began with. Without fault, NC State played hard, but fell to the Aggies. After dinner, I checked into a local hotel and made plans for the following day.
First stop of the day would be Bodega Bay. Taking a long walk along the beach, I rallied from the previous day and took in the sites the California coast had to offer. Many places across California would be known for filming locations of Alfred Hitchcock movies and Bodega Bay was no different, having played host as the eerie and foggy town in “The Birds.” Before leaving town, I had lunch at Inn at The Tides; wanting to partake in the local seafood, I was less than impressed with the oysters and fish stew I ordered.
Continuing up the coast, I would stop at the Russian River Beach. The water is incredibly clear. Heading onward, I drove through the town of Jenner en route to Stewarts Point. A small blip on the map, not much more than a post office and general store, and a few homes are all that lay claim to the town. Of course I had to take a picture of Pearl at the Post Office.
Stopping for the night, I camped at a KOA campground at Manchester State Park. Not much to do, I read and ate a small dinner. Gianna and Uncle John both texted to check in to see how my travels were going.
With little sleep, I rose early and broke camp to get moving. I headed toward Mendocino, to Big River Beach. Brewing a cup of coffee, I walked along the river out to the ocean. Still amazed at how clear the water is this close to the ocean, I took a seat and enjoyed the view while listening to the waves crash. Walking back to the truck, I had plans to stop a few more times, taking in all that was the Pacific Coast Highway. Mackerricher State Park would be next. Finishing my coffee perched atop Pearl, I looked over the beach as the waves pounded the coast. Not unlike the coast back in North Carolina, the changes of the coastline make for more dramatic waves the further north you drive. A short hike through the park and Pearl and I would be back on the road.
Leaving the coast behind us, Pearl and I would weave through the trees, up and over the mountains to The Land of Giants. We reached the Eel River and made our way onto the Avenue of The Giants Parkway. Some of the countries oldest and largest trees can be found here.
Making more than a few stops to admire the beauty of the forest, I found what would end up being Pearl’s greatest test, a gravel bar. When you approach a sign leading to any off-road access that notes 4wd is recommended, heed the warning and engage before moving forward. Not planning to be there any longer than the time it would take to snap a pic, I ignored the sign and continued on. Cruising over the large gravel near the river we had no problem. I parked with the bridge behind us to take a picture got back in. Upon driving back to the road, we made little headway without momentum and easily sank in the loose gravel. First my thoughts went from, “Oh were fine, I’ll put it in 4wd” to ” WTF…it won’t engage” and quickly was panicking. Then, it hit me, I have to lock the hubs to 4wd before I can shift. I felt like a big dummy, but thankfully wasn’t buried deep and got everything locked and shifted to 4wd. Not taking any chances I dropped into 4 wheel low and into the lowest drive gear and Pearl easily crawled out and up onto hard ground with ease just as she was built to.
*Note: if you intend to drive off-road, practice switching to four wheel drive. Today’s modern vehicles are a bit easier than vintage trucks with manual locking hubs, but everyone should be proficient with their rig. It will help you remain calm and prevent possible damage in the future.
We were back on the road and making our way to Eureka, California. I. checked into the hotel and made plans for dinner at Humboldt Provision Company. Dining on local oysters and a charcuterie and cheese board, paired with local beer, I was in gastronomic heaven. This would be a hard meal to beat. All provisions here are sourced locally.
Waking early, I departed the small city of Eureka and ventured across the bay to Samoa Dunes Recreation Area to catch the sunrise and enjoy a fresh brewed cup of coffee. Enjoying the show, I reveled in the light of the new day. Making our way north, we drove into and through Redwood National Park along the Newton B Drury Scenic Byway. Stopping at the Brown Creek Trailhead, I hiked up and into the forest. Amazed at the never ending beauty and scale of the trees making up the forest, I stumbled upon a small grove named “Schenck’s Boys” after the early American Forester, Carl Schenck, known for pioneering forestry education in North America.
Continuing our drive through the Park, we stopped in Klamath off Highway 101 for another pic of Pearl before heading into Crescent City where I would camp for the night. It was late afternoon, and I was hungry after hiking earlier. Finding the local brewery, Seaquake, I ate fish tacos and enjoyed conversations with the bartenders and other guests. By chance, I met a fellow traveller, Barbara, enjoying time along the coast and living the “van life.” We shared some friendly conversation over a couple beers. Camping for the night, we decided it would be fun to explore a bit around the area tomorrow and continue sharing stories of our travels.
Rising a little later than planned, I would nurse a rather painful hangover all day. Collecting myself, I met Barbara for lunch at Enoteca before exploring the beach and surrounding area. Nearby the lighthouse, there is a foghorn that goes off without stopping what felt like all day; then again I could have been imagining the repetitious blast from being disoriented due to the hangover. Chatting more, Barbara has an immense knowledge of the beer industry having been a part of it throughout her career in many roles. It is always great to gain knowledge from an insider, but just as nice to share drink or two while broadening your education on the subject.
Today, I would head into Oregon for Ashland. Taking Howland Hill Rd through the trees, it was great to get off pavement and stretch Pearls legs out a bit. Stopping for a quick hike to what I thought was a waterfall, I turn around without finding anything. Back on the road, it was a wonderful drive along the river. The scenery hasn’t changed much, but we have added another state to the list. Making it to Ashland, Oregon I was able to check in early, and immediately showered and took a nap. Wiped from a good bit of hiking the last couple days and plenty of driving, I needed to stretch and relax.
Before long, I woke with growls of hunger growing louder. Having been recommended to try out Skout Ashland, I made my way in to town and located the taproom. With the pandemic starting in 2020 and bleeding over into 2021, Oktoberfest had been cancelled. Being that is was that time of year, I couldn’t resist enjoying my favorite style of beer, Märzen. Skout Ashland was celebrating, even though the festival in Bavaria had been put off another year. I delightfully paired my stein of beer with a Bavarian pretzel, accompanied by spicy brown mustard, beer cheese, sauerkraut, and pickled beets. Heading back to the hotel now full, I slept well for the first time in a week.
Week 17 Mileage – 784