Over the Hills and Far Away

Over the Hills and Far Away

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Week two started bright and early; rising for good light, I made my way to the Rio Grand Gorge Bridge but the sun beat me there. Alas, it was still a beautiful sight to see. The depth of the gorge is incredible, and the thought of spanning a bridge across it is an amazing feat. Making my way around the Enchanted Circle Scenic Drive, I had a few other stops once I left Taos, including the Red River Fish Hatchery (although closed, access to the river was still available) and the Wild River Visitor Center, which was informative, and had some amazing vistas that I took full advantage of. Heading back to the main road of the Enchanted Circle, I stopped in to see Sandy and Roger (friends of my parents), two talented artists that run Art Questa in Questa, NM. It was great to catch up with them, since last seeing them 13 years ago. Having an excellent chat, they told me about the spots to hit on the way around the mesa, and I was on the road again. Taking my time, I wanted to enjoy the drive; and especially watch out for the Bighorn Sheep that frequently stop traffic along the way – none for me this time. First stop was Red River, famous for its Memorial Day Weekend biker rally, it was filled with motorcyclists. In such a small town, it was cool to see the streets lined with the bikes. Climbing to 9820ft, Pearl and I summited Bobcat Pass; and what a climb it was, with beautiful scenery everywhere. Descending into Eagle Nest, we stopped for a photo op at the Historic Marker for Wheeler Peak, before moving on to the Vietnam Veteran Memorial. Having seen many memorials, including the National Mall and statues in my hometown of Raleigh, NC, I couldn’t have imagined a more beautiful place to remember the sacrifices that our soldiers gave. And on Memorial Day weekend, the message that we should Remember and Honor those men and women that pay with their lives, is more evident.

Making my way south past Santa Fe, we had our sights set on the Turquoise Trail and the small town of Madrid, NM en route to Albuquerque. Of course, rolling into Madrid, it was exactly what I imagined and had seen in the movie; that may or may not have put Madrid on the map, Wild Hogs – starring John Travolta, Tim Allen, William H. Macy, Martin Lawrence, Ray Liotta, and featuring Peter Fonda. I stopped into Maggies Diner, which isn’t actually a diner and doesn’t serve food, but took an obligatory pic, just for kicks. Finding a bite to eat was not hard, but I settled on the Mineshaft Tavern and enjoyed a delicious New Mexico style burger with fried Hatch Green Chili on the side. Now full from lunch, I made my way to Albuquerque for the night.

Today, Pearl and I would take a couple more scenic drives getting off the highway for some natural scenery. Our first stop would be El Malpais, but along the way I saw a sign for the Petrified National Monument. Unbeknownst to me, I was 30 minutes early, with much to see, we kept moving. Make note of the open and closing times for any attraction you intend to see; detours can be spontaneous, but worth it when available to check out. Arriving at El Malpais just after opening, our earlier detour ended up being worth it. Heading for the sandstone bluffs, Pearl and I ventured down the road; finding our way to the landmark overlook where I bouldered around capturing all the views I could see. But what was pulling me down the path was the La Ventenna Arch, a natural formation where the sun shown through illuminating the surrounding geology.

Surprising to me was a sister park just next door, but we needed to take another road to get there. Heading back to the highway, we made our way there, but came across signs for the Land of Fire and Ice so we stopped in and was thrilled I did. I got to see my first every volcano cone and the whole time was singing “Volcano” by Jimmy Buffett. Heading back, the park had opened a new path, walking down an old lava flow, leading to the ice cave. About 50ft down a staircase, standing on a platform there was solid ice, some almost 20ft thick. The cave maintains a constant 31 degrees all year long. Heading out, I ran into a couple who is riding their motorcycle touring around the southwest for a bit. I saw them the day earlier in Madrid. We chatted for a bit and talked about what our plans were and set off for our last two stops before making camp for the night. Heading for Winslow, Arizona, Pearl and I first took the driving tour through the Petrified Forest National Park. Views spanning the horizon in the Painted Desert, the Blue Mesa, and a car proudly stationed, maybe where it died, along the old Route 66 where you could still see the power lines that lined the old interstate. Making our way into Winslow, we had one thing on our mind;

“Well I’m standing on a corner in Winslow, Arizona And such a fine site to see, It’s a girl, my Lord, in a flatbed Ford Slowin’ down to take a look at me.” “Take It Easy – Eagles

Finding that corner, and coincidently a flatbed Ford, along with Glenn Frey we got some pics and then walked next door for a sandwich and beer at Relic. With time dwindling and dark creeping up on us, We made way for Mather Campground in Grand Canyon National Park.

4:25 Am I wake prematurely to my alarm. No light has yet reached through the canopy of the campground, but I gather my camera and get ready to make the 1.5 mile hike to Mather Point for sunrise. Having witnessed multiple sunrises on a rafting trip down the Colorado River in 2018 I am not new to a Grand Canyon sunrise, but this illumination was truly Grand; the hues of the red rock and blue sky alert the natural landscape that a new day has dawned.

After enjoying a few brief moments at the south rim, I had set my sites for Sedona, Arizona; an easy drive for me and Pearl. I am no longer caught off guard by onlookers of Pearl, but this encounter was a pleasant surprise. I spent a half hour or so chatting with a fellow vintage truck enthusiast who also is searching for a Scout. He even tried to buy Pearl, but she is priceless. Beginning our drive from Grand Canyon NP, today would mark the first day on our journey we would drive east on a major interstate. Finding our way down the scenic drive into Sedona, we twisted and turned through a canyon with sheer drop-offs. Cruising main street, looking for parking, I stumbled upon a small brewery off the main drag and couldn’t resist stopping. The beer was delicious, and the food evenly matched. Now full, I began my return trip to Flagstaff for then evening. Always searching for a small business to support, of course I am looking for as many local breweries as I can. Parking myself on a stool at Mother Road Brewing in Flagstaff, I was greeted with a smile and later shared a table with a couple brewers enjoying their tasty beverages. Flagstaff has been the first town where I have really gotten a chance to meet some local people and really enjoyed my stay there.

Departing Flagstaff this morning, Pearl and I had another easy driving day through western Arizona. Before making our way to the Historic Route 66, we first stopped for a bite to eat in Williams, Arizona.The Pine Country Restaurant, packed as I can imagine it always is, was able to accommodate myself quickly. Biscuits and gravy with a cowboy coffee (just black), I was plenty full and ready for the day. For a different perspective, I have yet to see on this trip, I rode on the Williams Zip-Line. Although quick, one has the chance to see the “Gateway to The Grand Canyon” from above. Heading for the stretch of the “Mother Road,” I have been ready to see, I put Pearl in gear and hit the road. Diverting from Interstate 40 in Crookton, Pearl and I put rubber down on one of the most documented section of the historic road. Seligman was our first stop; driving through town first taking it in, I turned around and parked right out front of Angel Delgadillo’s barber shop and tourist shop.

Hoping to see the famous “Angel of Route 66” and maybe get a quick clip, I was disappointed to learn the famous barber was off duty on the weekend. Walking down main street, I took in the sites, of classic cars, murals, and imagined what a busy place this once was. Along the way to Kingman, my final destination and home for the night on Route 66, a billboard caught my eye – Grand Canyon Caverns – over 200ft deep underground. No matter how cheesy roadside attractions are, I have never been that far underground, so I told myself, why not. I was intrigued and rewarded. Interestingly enough, the original proprietor literally stumbled into a hole on the way to a poker game. With no luck that night, he returned to investigate the hole he found as it seemed to continue on. Believing he had just located a mine, he quickly paid for the acreage around it and started mining what would amount to only tin and gypsum. With little to show for his investment, he needed to recoup his loss and began charging visitors who would venture into the cavern. Today, you can enjoy a meal underground, spend the night, or even get married, a tradition started by two former employees. My brain, now filled with probably useless facts and terrible puns, I got back on the road, heading for Kingman, where Pearl and I would stay at the KOA tonight. Tomorrow we have planned to make it to Las Vegas, Nevada.

Planning to work on the Blog this morning, I woke early and made my way into Downtown Kingman, took a speedy driving tour through town and found my way to a local coffee shop, where I hoped to sit down. Alas, that was not the case, the shop didn’t even look open until I drove through the drive through and noticed they only serve at the window. Pearl being a right hand drive, poses a problem. I asked the barista if I could drive the other way, which she wasn’t sure about, simply told me I could walk up. I grabbed another Americano (my go to coffee order) and a jalapeño bagel on her recommendation and headed down the street to find the only shade in the parking lot of the museum. Time raced by, along with the handful of trains through town. The attending docent at the museum was so nice, she let me in as her guest. Never turning down a chance for a history lesson, I was more interested in the cars in this museum; all electric from days of yore to our current era, where you can see cars created by university students.

With our sites now set on “The City of Sin” Pearl and I had hoped to visit the Hoover Dam; of course it was for her benefit and not mine having been to the depths of the dam before. Unfortunately, the massive flag that was draped over the Dam for Memorial Day had been removed and under the current circumstances of possible threats; with understanding Pearl and I were turned around having certain safety precautions on board. Las Vegas holds two Scenic Drives, which include the modern strip and the old town strip around Fremont Street. Wanting to complete as many of these drives as we can, I pushed Pearl through the heat outside of town to check on the Red Rock Canyon Drive. Gathering the necessary information I needed for the next morning, we made our way back through town in 100+ degree temps to drive down the entire strip, old and new. Stop and go traffic is most definitely Pearl’s least favorite activity. After a quick side stop to cool down in what little shade Vegas has to offer, I grabbed a ticket to return later to the Neon Museum. Parking Pearl, I checked into the El Cortez, second oldest casino and hotel in Las Vegas. No gambling was harmed in my stay, nor was my bank account. The new additions of the Moulin Rouge sign and Hard Rock Guitar made my second visit to the museum well worth it.

Its Las Vegas, so I could only assume the loud voices outside my hotel room were from people just getting back from a night of dinner, drinks and gambling. Nonetheless, my preset alarms were just as annoying. Not making it up in time to make a sunrise drive through the Red Rock Canyon, Pearl and I finally got moving and took the driving tour through the panoramic vistas. Diverting into and then just as quickly out of California, we made our way to a secondary highway where Pearl and I began our trip south through the desert to Lake Havasu City, where we stopped for lunch at the Barley Brothers brewery; yes another one, I know. Having refueled myself and Pearl with the first tank of non-ethanol fuel since North Carolina, we continued our trip south through the oppressive desert heat. Stopping for a quick breather and water stop, Pearl and I made our way into California where we would be spending much of the next month. Crossing rivers, viewing outcroppings akin to monument valley, we ventured on to Joshua Tree National Park. Reserving a campsite in the Jumbo Rocks Campground, Pearl and I made it before sundown. I let Pearl cool down and pitched camp. The temps, while still fairly warm, were much cooler in the park. Around sunset I prepared dinner; tonight I had another Heather’s Choice option – Chicken Molle with Rice. Wanting to capture sunrise the next morning, I went to bed around 10pm.

Waking the next morning, I hiked up to the trailhead for Skull Rock from the campground and made my way to a spot to watch the sunrise. Spending time just taking in the natural beauty of the Park, I was transfixed into a spiritual state watching the colors of the Coachella Valley wake up. Before departing Joshua Tree, I headed to Keys View to see the surrounding valley and what lies beneath. passing by the trees that give the park its namesake, I was reminded of a scene from “Rango,” where Johnny Depp’s character talks to the cacti, their bending branches giving them anthropomorphic traits. Leaving JT, I found a coffee shop in town, and while the heat was already climbing, opted for a nitro cold brew, refreshing as it as, it was still the caffeine I needed. Heading for Palm Springs, I arrived in town and made a few stops including the Visitor Center/Palm Springs Tram (I would return later), El Mirassol for lunch on my sisters recommendation, before checking into the Ace Hotel & Swim Club. While I missed most of the day to lay by the pool, dinner was delicious, Chicken Kale Cesar with a Cranky Coyote cocktail.

Week 2 Mileage – 1782.7

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